The creation of the Strongly Fragile collection, part 2

Photo of design process including sketches and sewing of the Strongly Fragile collectionPhoto of design process including sketches and sewing of the Strongly Fragile collectionPhoto of design process including sketches and sewing of the Strongly Fragile collection

After experimenting with the fabric through draping and fabric samples as seen here, I started sketching A LOT. I always make many more sketches than I need to see which ones work better together in a line-up. I try combining the elements I have developed in my experimenting process with the overall inspiration for the collection and with the fabrics I have already collected. After I finish my sketches and go through my selection process, I might set out to find the last fabrics to complete the collection. It is not like I buy several meters of every fabric I need. I just need samples to clip onto my final line-up to give a better understanding of the styles.

Pattern design & samples

Photo of design process including sketches and sewing of the Strongly Fragile collectionPhoto of design process including sketches and sewing of the Strongly Fragile collectionPhoto of design process including sketches and sewing of the Strongly Fragile collectionPhoto of design process including sketches and sewing of the Strongly Fragile collection

After I finished my sketching process (pff, there is no such thing as finishing your sketching process…), I chose an outfit to sew in full-size. I started developing the patterns and sew a few samples. Actually, if I remember correctly, I sew quite a lot of samples of that coat because the special collar, pleated back and very close fit made it a bit complicated to get just right. Also, I had fitting sessions with a model to make sure it fitted perfectly.

Sewing the final garments

Photo of design process including sketches and sewing of the Strongly Fragile collectionPhoto of design process including sketches and sewing of the Strongly Fragile collectionPhoto of design process including sketches and sewing of the Strongly Fragile collectionPhoto of design process including sketches and sewing of the Strongly Fragile collectionPhoto of design process including sketches and sewing of the Strongly Fragile collectionPhoto of design process including sketches and sewing of the Strongly Fragile collection

Finally, after all the patterns were adjusted after the fittings, I sew the final garments. I love taking pictures of this part of the process, though it is probably my least favourite part. I am always amazed of how much work it is to create patterns, cut the fabric, prepare the fabric and then sew. When everything goes right and smooth (hah, hardly ever..) it can be a bit fun to see how a piece of clothing develops from a million pieces to one.

So how did it end?

You can see the result right here. Thanks for reading!

The creation of the Strongly Fragile collection, part 1

Photo of design process including drape of the Strongly Fragile collectionPhoto of design process including drape of the Strongly Fragile collection

I developed the Strongly Fragile collection when I was studying my bachelor’s degree in Fashion Design. In preparation for the project, I researched a time period for part of my inspiration. The 1930s was a decade still affected by Art Deco, that decorated beautiful architecture and art, adding patterns, lines and shapes. This, combined with textile details including lingerie from the period, ads romance and a bit of daring to a sharp look. Finally, the surrealism ads symbolic value, as it is more free and abstract, looking behind the facade and under the layers.

Experimenting with different fabric

Photo of design process including drape of the Strongly Fragile collectionPhoto of design process including drape of the Strongly Fragile collectionPhoto of design process including drape of the Strongly Fragile collection

When developing ideas in fashion, one of my preferred techniques is to experiment with the fabric to see what is possible. I do quick sketches and notes from my inspiration board and by looking at my selected fabric, and then grip a scissor and place myself in front of a sewing machine. As seen above, I came up with two interesting design elements. One of them is patchwork with lace, neoprene and a pinstripe tailoring fabric. The other element is a pleat with neoprene on the outside and lace on the inside. These elements have been used in my line-up of the collection, which you can see in part 2.

Drape, drape, drape

Photo of design process including drape of the Strongly Fragile collectionPhoto of design process including drape of the Strongly Fragile collectionPhoto of design process including drape of the Strongly Fragile collection

Another good way to get ideas flowing is by draping with the fabric you intend to use in the final garment, or at least a very similar fabric. I draped on a dummy with a lovely plum coloured wool fabric I had fallen in love with in a local fashion shop. I knew I wanted to design a nice coat for the collection so I experimented with different draping of the back to make it more interesting and unique. The last draping shown above was the one I chose and you can see the final result here.

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